Pleasant Pond Lean To to West Carry Pond Lean To – 20 miles

My mood brightened significantly today after a quick stop in Caratunk, a town so small it is mainly a glorified wifi hot spot. Still, it served my needs.

Most of the dilapidated houses appear to be inhabited by river rats, judging by the high end kayaks and bikes strewn in the yards. One house offers hikers lodging and a few resupply items.

On the porch of the Hiker B&B, I enjoyed an ice cream sandwich and the company of several other southbounders. I checked my email and received some good vibes from friends. The other hikers feasted on pulled pork sandwiches and milkshakes. No one seemed in too much of a hurry.

It was nice to know other SOBOs are out here, and this left me feeling much more optimistic about meeting partners over the next few weeks.

I crossed the Kennebec River by canoe ferry, which was a hoot. In the evening I watched the sunset turn the sky purple and gold over West Carry Pond, while loons dove and called. To end the day, I skinny dipped in the lake and a crawdad pinched my toe.

All day I felt strong and healthy, and quite happy to be alone. I think I’m getting the hang of hiking solo.

Update: Several people asked about the Kennebec River ferry. After a few hikers drowned trying to cross the river, the Maine Appalachian Trail Club hired Rob Starboard (his real name) to ferry hikers across. His canoe even has a white blaze to indicate the official trail route!